Time-honoured patterns and motifs are formed on fabrics using difficult and elaborate weaving techniques and a traditional ‘ikat’ tie-dye method, which involves the binding of palm leaf strands around groups of threads on the loom to create resistance to the dye process. Often fabrics will pass through two or more dyeings to create varied depths of colour, with dyers adding and removing bindings along the way to create more intricate patterns.

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Ikat is a technique of resist dyeing, where the patterns are created on the textile yarns via this specialised technique before the textile is woven. This distinguishes ikat from other resist dyeing techniques, in which the fabric is dyed after weaving. the term 'ikat' comes from the Indonesian verb, 'mengikat', meaning to tie or bind. 

The threads are wrapped around a frame in the measurements of the final cloth dimensions,

carefully laid out so that all of the threads lie parallel to one another.

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The design is marked and the threads are tightly bound with palm leaves into sections corresponding to the desired pattern. The yarns are then submerged in a series of dye baths and during this process new sections of yarn are often wrapped and others released.

The bound areas resist the dye when and remain their original colour when the yarn is plunged into the dye bath. After dyeing, the thread is rinsed and dried and the bindings are removed, revealing the patterns against a coloured background. The yarns are then mounted back onto the frame in preparation for weaving. As the cloth is woven, the pattern is fully revealed.

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The patterns of ikat are very traditional, as they represent the village where the cloth was woven. For centuries, textiles have been used to tell stories of ancestors, myths, traditions, and legends. In West Sumba, there are more geometric patterns, whereas in East Sumba they have figural ornamentation like village scenes, animals and mythical creatures, all of which have historical and religious significance. Ikats from Sumba are shown in museums around the world as an example of the highest

quality of textiles.